Hand Embroidery

Goldwork embroidery, also known as metal thread work, is one of the most luxurious forms of needlework. Its materials are metallic threads — often gold, silver, or gilt — couched down onto rich ground fabrics to create shimmering designs. In some early pieces the gold threads were stitched down in such a way as to form a dazzling background or surround to enhance the embroidery in the foreground. This technique was refined and honed between 1250–1350 in England and became known as Opus Anglicanum or English Work.

The basis of silk shading, also known as ‘painting with a needle’ or ‘thread painting’, is the use of the long and short stitch, a technique that is suited to producing delicately shaded images and motifs.

The long and short stitch is found in other embroidery techniques, but silk shading relies solely on this stitch. With the growing availability of silk yarns, particularly with trading opening up from the 17th century, silk shading started to be found in secular clothing.

Today it remains as popular as ever, and is prized in ecclesiastical garments and church hangings for its delicacy, versatility, and timelessness.

Appliqué is the technique of cutting out small pieces of fabric (or slips) and attaching them to a larger piece of fabric. It is an ancient form of textile embellishment which dates from at least the 3rd century AD.

The term comes from the French verb appliquer, ‘to apply’. The slips are attached to the ground fabric by folding the edges under to form a hem or the cut edges are stitched directly. The slips are thus held in place and the edges can then be covered by other more decorative stitches.

Appliqué is an important technique which beautifully complements embroidery and can be used for extra embellishment and coverage of larger areas. It is an effective way to add texture, colour and pattern to designs.